Recently I spent a wonderful couple of weeks in India in search of some more textiles and to follow up on a couple of projects I had initiated back in February when I was last there. It was a whistle stop tour where I covered almost the length and breadth of the country - and I always wish I had more time. There is just never enough of it.
Each time I return I think I will have uncovered everything I need to know about that spot but it only shows me more.
This time I started my visit by visiting the incredible IHGF Trade Fair in Noida just outside Delhi. When I started Samarkand Design I visited this fair for the first time and it make Decorex look like the village fete by comparison - in terms of sheer size and scale. You really would need five whole days to get around it so its really important to try and stay focused. I was inspired, as ever, by the extraordinary diversity of skill and artistry on offer in India - but you can't help but wonder where it all goes. I visited a few of my favourite suppliers but also found some interesting new designers - so watch this space for some new products in the Spring.
These great sisal mats and some really fun sisal lamps
And wer are going to supply some lovely crewel work on linen by the yard so do get in touch if you are interested.
Whilst I was inn Delhi I made time to revisit the wonderful National Craft Museum - and you might be bored of this now - but it does house a fantastic collection of Indian textiles and I always come away. having learned something new and feeling uplifted by it.
I also visited a newly opened centre for handmade goods in South Delhi called The Kunj which was full of showrooms displaying some stunning handloom, painting, art and crafts. I especially loved the exhibition of Chamba Rumal - a unique pictorial embroidery craft from Chamba, Himachal Pradesh. Some really stunning contemporary examples of this ancient art.
Here is the interior of The Kunj - it's a really impressive building
An example of one of the Chamba Rumals on display
After an action packed thre days in delhi I flew down to Kannur in Northern Kerala to escape the Diwali festivities - not because I am a killjoy - but because no one is open over the the festival in North India but Diwali is not really celebrated in much of the South, especially Kerala which is largely Muslim or Christian.
I returned to my favourite spot on the beach at Chera Rocks - just in time for the short Monsoon so i was witness to some cracking thunderstorms over the sea. When I was here earlier in the year I found a beautiful handloom sari made using a Dobby loom and I have made it my mission to try and find some more. However this quite complex type of weaving is dying out now as so few of the weavers can make a living - so tjhis is really a labour of love, if it ever comes to pass! After a couple of days waiting (which I can't really complain about) I finally got to see the sample but sadly it doesn't resemble the original at all so we are back to the drawing board. It is quite frustrating but I am hopeful that if I am patient we will get the right result in the end. Here are a couple of pictures showing the original made into a lampshade and one of the attempt at copying it.
I did make time to visit some of the sights of Kannur which has an interesting history and is very rarely visited by tourists. Kannur, historically known as Cannanore, was shaped by trade, culture, and colonial influences. Once the capital of the Kolathunadu Kingdom, it was an active centre for the spice trade with Arabs, Greeks, and Romans and became a renowned centre of the handloom industry. The Portuguese built St. Angelo Fort in 1505, which was later controlled by the Dutch and British, making Kannur a key colonial stronghold. I spent a relaxing Sunday afternoon at the atmospheric fort ands visited the very colourful fishing port.
A flight back up North to Lucknow which was a first time visit for me. Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, is known for its rich cultural heritage, elegant architecture, and refined manners but most importantly it is the home of Chikan Kari the delicate and intricate white threadwork for which it has become famous. Once the seat of the Nawabs of Awadh, it flourished as a center of art, music, poetry, and cuisine, blending Mughal and Persian influences. Like many Indian cities it is quite. hard to penetrate on a short visit but i was able to find some beautiful examples of this embroidery which you will see in various guises over the next few months. It is very difficult to photograph - being white on white so no pics yet!
It was with some sense of home-coming that I returned to Jaipur and familiar surroundings. I was met my the wonderful Abdul, who has been my companion, fixer, driver and friend over the many years I have been going there. If you are ever in Jaipur and need someone to show you the best shopping, sights, and chicken biriani spots then get in touch with him by whats app on +91 9950692736.
I had a lovely dinner with my friends from Indigo Antiques - ships passing in the night at the wonderful Bar Palladio - a must see spot in Jaipur where you can indulge in some delicious pasta - which after 10 days of curry was a welcome change.
Jaipur is where I buy most of our vintage textiles and I spent a very happy couple of days immersing myself in the piles of kanthas, Banjara, pulkaris, nakshi quilts, saris not to mention mountains of block print and kalamkari. This really is the best part of my job!
For the first time I stayed at the lovely home of Nawabzada Aimaduddin Ahmad Khan and Begum Fauzia - Loharu House which is a very comfortable and quietly grand house in Civil Lines. Delicious home cooked food and fascinating conversations to be had. My fellow guest Manjari Chaturvedi , a classical Indian dancer was performing "The Courtesan Project" Celebrating the Women Performers, the Tawaifs and the Baijis of North India which we went to see and it was fun to catch a glimpse of the cultural life of Jaipur.
I spent my last morning in Jaipur revisiting some of the famous tourist sights that I hadn't visited since my first trip here many moons ago. I spend so much time in dusty warehouses I sometimes forget to see the extraordinary sights around me. The wonderful flower market - Phool Mandi, my favourite step well and the nearby temple Shri Keshav Rai Ji kalyan in Amber and the lake palace.
I was reminded of how lucky I am to come to know this remarkable city which really encapsulates so much of what people expect of India - its romantic architecture, the noise , the colour and the vibrancy - the traffic, the pollution, the beauty and the beastliness - it is all here.